Bath problem

Some time ago we had someone in to replace our bath, wash basin and toilet plus generally tidy-up the tiling etcetera but we soon found out that they'd done a bodge job of it when things started to leak or fall apart.

Early this year we got a proper plumber in to rectify things but a handyman to do some general tidying-up of the things bodged before, including the sealant around the bath.

This had fallen out a month after the cowboys put it in so I did the best I could but it wasn't much better but at least it did seal the bath around the sides.

Anyway, Paul did all the jobs we asked him to do but I wasn't happy about the sealant again and I got him back to re-do it - twice.

The problem is that it's dropped out again and it's because the bath itself seems to drop substantially as it's filled.

Does anyone know if there's a solution to this with some kind of wide sealant "system" perhaps that'll accomodate a quarter inch of movement?

The only other thing I can do now is get that bath ripped out and get our reliable plumber to fit a new one but I just can't afford it at the moment, hence the ask about sealant.

I've seen that right-angled plastic with rubber edges somewhere - B&Q maybe - but it'd have to cope with this quarter inch drop so it'd have to be stuck to the bath itself, hard up against the tiling I think.
(Is that stuff wide enough? Anyone know?)

Other than that, any suggestions as to how to affect a fairly cheap repair that'll last until I can afford to get Nick the Plumber back would be gratefully accepted!! stevmk2

Re: Bath problem

Steve before putting the sealant on if its the soft white ,you should fill the bath up ,then put the sealant round and leave for 24hrs before emptying the bath.Thats how our plumber did it .

Re: Bath problem

Do you fill the bath before sealing ? The bath should be full of water as heavy as you can get it before you use sealant. Then as it sets the water is let out and it should maintain a good seal.

Re: Bath problem

That's why Paul had to come back and redo it Julie - he hadn't done that.

However, when he DID do that it still came undone due to that gap.

That's the cause - a bit too much movement for standard fitting but there must be something I can try?

We got Nick to mend the shower in May but with this problem I'm worried in case water goes through the flooring under the bath as there's hallway ceiling lights directly underneath now! stevmk2

Re: Bath problem

Is the bath supported adequately underneath? A bath shouldn't drop when filled. It's not only the weight of water but your weight when you are in the bath. If it's on floor boards they may be flexing.

Re: Bath problem

I don't know if it's still available but you used to be able to get a right angled plastic strip that sealed to the wall and to the bath for awkward places, worked well when we were in a wooden building that flexed with the weather in all directions.

Re: Bath problem

1. attach a length of quarter quadrant to the wall at the side of the bath with an appropriate adhesive (don't glue the quadrant to the bath) with the bath empty.
2. Allow time to form a strong bond.
3. now with the bath full run the sealant along the gap between the quadrant and the side of the bath.

Re: Bath problem

I was told to clean the area beforehand with vinegar, it removes any residue and gives a clean surface for the sealant to adhere. Did this when making my aquariums, the other suggestions make sense.

Re: Bath problem

Support the bath, take the side panel off and get a 2M length of old scaffold board, put the board on the U/S of the bottom of the bath and chock it up from the floorboards with pieces of 4 X 2 soft timber . Drive them in tightly so that the base of the bath does not sag when self and 30 gall of water are superimposed.
Sealant will then ,hopefully, stay in place

Re: Bath problem

Steve - some good ideas above. Post 7 will fix it for now.

But in situations like this you need to address the basic problem i.e. the bath movement is much more than sealant is designed to accomodate.

I would go with post 9 because it:-
a) Addresses the basic problem
b) Will prevent future (much worse) problems in 2 or 3 years from now when it's possible all the flexing in the bath causes a crack which will require a new bath! (I'm assuming we're not talking cast iron bath here)

Tradesmen (Some anyway) rely far too much an banging sealant into joints these days when a good plumber will know that a bath must be supported properly, but then again where do you find a good plumber these days